Thiruvannamalai
- sri mathi
- Jun 8
- 4 min read
Updated: Jun 10
It begins with Girivalam — the sacred circumambulation of the hill.
My earliest memories unfold on weekends, made special by this holy walk around Arunachala, which begins and ends at the East Gopuram, the main entrance of the Arunachaleswarar Temple. We would tread barefoot along the 14-kilometer path, a route sanctified by time, lined with the Ashta Lingams, and walked by countless pilgrims through the ages. Traditionally done on full moon nights, Girivalam carries a quiet magic — as the moon reflects on the soul and lights the way, purifying and soothing the mind.
But for us locals, it wasn’t always a solemn ritual. We walked the path whenever we felt like it, like grabbing a coffee or meeting friends.
Girivalam was our version of a spiritual retreat, cycling alongside friends, pausing on stone benches to chat and gaze out at the hills. Whether on night bike rides or morning walks, the Girivalam path has a unique way of bringing peace and a deep sense of life satisfaction.
Those quiet days, however, are long gone. The once serene path is now crowded, like walking in a slow-moving queue, and the hush of devotion is often lost in the rush.
As you trudge past Adi Annamalai, you’ll find yourself surrounded by a variety of small eateries serving up delicious treats — from kulipaniyaram to ragi adais paired with tangy mallata chutneys, perfect for satisfying hungry or weary travelers. There’s a little shop alongside the sacred path that sells crispy, bite-sized 1-rupee vadas — my absolute favorite. These little morsels are pure, wholesome happiness.
Another local secret is the availability of amazing pani puris scattered around the town, not tied to any single eatery. Often, vendors generously offer a couple of extra puris as a bonus, sometimes even three! The masala puris are a must-try, and when paired with a hot cup of tea, they make for an unbeatable quick evening snack.
Though the pani puris here may not be the traditional or authentic version, our taste buds have grown to crave the unique local twist, and honestly, we love our special way of enjoying them. Sipping that tea and gazing at the sacred Arunachala Hill from anywhere in town truly feels like home.
Annadanam, the sacred offering of food at Yogi Ramsuratkumar Ashram and Ramana Maharshi Ashram, is marked by its simplicity and deep care. The meals, lovingly prepared, nourish not just the body but the spirit, welcoming people from all walks of life without distinction.
As the world changes, so does the city, with rising traffic and crowds pouring in from all directions, the temple remains perpetually packed, leaving little space for locals. Increased footfall has led to tighter security, with more rules and restrictions now in place within the temple premises.
The city always brims with celebration and devotion, especially when the streets come alive to welcome the divine presence of Annamalaiyar. Among all festivals, the most prominent and world-renowned is Karthigai Deepam, celebrated in December.
The grandeur of the temple chariot parading through the streets draws millions of devotees, culminating in the sacred lighting of the flame atop Arunachala Hill, a blazing beacon visible across the city. This divine light, believed to represent Lord Shiva’s formless radiance, is honored in Hindu homes around the world by lighting rows of earthen lamps, believed to ward off evil and invite blessings and prosperity.
Thiruvannamalai thrives on countless occupations, from flower vendors and sculptors to sambrani (benzoin incense) sellers, all surrounding the temple and intimately tied to the needs of its visitors. Their counters are lined with earthen lamps filled with ghee, each holding a cotton wick, and trays of camphor suspended delicately, not waiting for sales, but for the arrival of yet another face from a far-off city. A stranger they may never meet again, yet they feel a quiet joy in contributing to that person’s offering to the deity. Their livelihoods are deeply dependent on those who come to worship, yet their hospitality remains selfless and priceless. I love spending time with them, listening to their stories. There is a quiet joy in how they see themselves as serving Annamalaiyar, valuing that devotion more than the profit they make.
One person in particular stands out. She left her job after being denied leave for Shivaratri. Now, with unwavering faith, she devotes her days to preparing and spreading the sacred fragrance of sambrani from her home. In the face of personal challenges, her life is a moving testament to brave surrender, believing the Divine will take care of all that she needs.
Thiruvannamalai, known as the Agni Sthala (the Fire Element among the five Pancha Bhoota Sthalas of Lord Shiva), holds a magnetic pull that draws devotees back again and again. The Arunachaleswarar Temple, an architectural marvel, was developed over several centuries under the patronage of great dynasties including the Cholas, Pandyas, Hoysalas, Vijayanagara kings, and notably Krishnadevaraya. Rather than being built all at once over a thousand years ago, it evolved gradually across more than a thousand years. There’s a popular saying that a city may be an abode in heaven, but Thiruvannamalai is a heavenly abode on Earth. Even actor Rajinikanth once described it as "Kailash on Earth," highlighting its unmatched spiritual aura.
There’s also a story that revolves around Arunachala about Shiva and Parvati. Shiva was deep in meditation, but Parvati wanted him to come spend time with her. They had a playful fight called Thiruvidal and Maruvidal. After a while, they made up and stayed together in harmony. People say their reunion took place right there, filling the place with a special energy. Locals love this story because it shows even gods have little fights but always come back together.
Not to forget that we have another special temple dedicated to the Tamil god Karthikeya — the Vadaveethi Subramanya Swami Temple. Famous among locals, it houses a self-manifested idol and is revered for its powerful presence. The temple is situated on Seenakkadai Street, approximately 200 meters from the main bus stand, making it easily accessible to devotees.
Hello, I’m Balaji Kashinathan!
A spiritual explorer of Thiruvannamalai, a video creator, and a storyteller devoted to Shiva.
Follow me @: tiruvannamalaikingdom
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